To make the mushy peas, place the marrowfat peas in a large bowl and cover with cold water that goes at least 2 inches above the peas. Leave to soak for 24 hours.
Rinse the peas well, then transfer to a saucepan with enough water to just cover. Add the bicarbonate of soda and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 1–1½ hours, or until completely softened. Stir regularly and skim off any foam that rises to the surface.
Season the mushy peas with salt and white pepper to taste, then add the butter and malt vinegar and keep warm.
To make the fish, fill a deep-fat fryer or a large, deep, heavy-bottomed pan two-thirds full with the oil. Heat to 180C. CAUTION: Hot oil can be dangerous. Do not leave unattended.
Mix together the flour, salt and baking powder with enough water to make a batter the consistency of double cream. Dip the hake fillets into the batter, then fry for 4–6 minutes, until cooked through. Drain on kitchen paper.
To make the chips, turn the deep-fat fryer down to 150C. Blanch the chips in the oil until soft but with minimal colour, then remove using a slotted spoon. You may need to do this in batches.
Increase the heat of the oil to 180C and fry the chips again for 3 minutes, to colour and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and season with malt vinegar and salt to taste.
To make the tartare sauce, mix everything together in a bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serve the fish, sprinkled with malt vinegar and salt, alongside the chips, tartare sauce and mushy peas.
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